Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is amigurumi doll
I want to give you some informations about this pattern ;

If you enjoy making amigurumi, here I share this easy and free amigurumi pattern for you for free. Your kids will love these toys…

Materials
2 balls of Catania TR263 (beige)
1 ball of Catania 106 (white)
1 ball of Catania 8414 (dusty pink)
1 ball of Catania 507 (sea green)
1 ball of Alize Diva 369 (caramel)
1 ball of Peria 120 (brown)
A small amount of dark pink and gray yarn
A small amount of red, off-white, green yarn
1 meter of white cotton lace
1 meter of wire
2mm crochet hook
10mm anthracite-colored safety eyes
2 buttons for overalls
2 buttons for blouses
1 piece of 2.5 cm alligator clip
2.0mm crochet hook

Abbreviations
SC: Single crochet
MR: Magic ring
Dec: Decrease
Inc: Increase
HDC: Half double crochet
HDC Inc: Half double crochet increase
DC: Double crochet
DC Inc: Double crochet increase
DC Dec: Double crochet decrease
Ch: Chain
BLO: Back loop only
FLO: Front loop only
Sl st: Slip stitch
Sc3tog: Single crochet three together
3-in-1: Work 3 times into the same stitch.

SLEEVE
Row 1: MR 5sc = 5sc
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 2: 5inc = 10sc
Row 3: (2sc, 1inc) 3 times, 1sc = 13sc
Row 4-6: (3 rows) 13sc
Row 7: 4-popcorn, 12sc = 13sc
Row 8: (1 row) 13sc
Row 9: (1dec, 2sc) 2 times, 1dec, 3sc = 10sc
Row 10-35: (26 rows) 10sc
**Do not fill the sleeves with fiber. Cut approximately 17cm wire and bend the end.

FOOT
RIGHT FOOT
***Begin with white yarn.
Row 1: MR 6sc, join with a slip stitch = 6sc
Row 2: Ch 6, starting from the 2nd ch, 5sc, 3sc in the MR, 1inc, 2sc, 4sc across the chain, 1inc = 18sc
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 3: (8sc, 1inc) 2 times = 20sc
Row 4-10: (7 rows) 20sc
Row 11: Ch 10, skip 10sc, 10sc
Row 12: Work 10sc over the chain, 10sc = 20sc

Row 13: 10dec = 10sc
Row 14: 5dec = 5sc (close with a yarn needle) (This completes the heel section)
***Hold the heel facing you and attach the yarn to the top part.
Row 15: 9sc, pick up 1sc from the 10th stitch, 1sc, 9sc, pick up 1sc from the 10th stitch = 20sc
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 16: 3sc, 2dec, 13sc = 18sc
Row 17-19: (3 rows) 18sc
***Insert the wire into the foot. Fill the foot every 5 rows.
Row 20: 4sc, 1inc, 13sc = 19sc (Increases will be right at the back)
Row 21: 19sc

***Crochet 5 more stitches and switch to skin color. Leave the white yarn on the outside and continue.
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 22: Blo 19sc
Row 23: 1inc, 18sc = 20sc
Row 24-26: (3 rows) 20sc
***With the white yarn left on the outside, (2ch, 1dc) on the front loops. Repeat this pattern to the end.
Row 27: 1inc, 19sc = 21sc
Row 28-30: (3 rows) 21sc
Row 31: 1sc, 1inc, 19sc = 22sc
Row 32-39: (8 rows) 22sc

Row 40: 1sc, 1dec, 19sc = 21sc
Row 41: 1sc, 1dec, 7sc, 5inc, 6sc = 25sc
(Increases will be right at the front. Adjust as necessary due to hand differences.)
Row 42: 25sc
Row 43: 3sc, 1dec, 4sc, 5dec, 3sc, 1dec, 1sc = 18sc
Row 44: 1sc, 1inc, 16sc = 19sc
Row 45: 1inc, 1sc, 1inc, 16sc = 21sc
Row 46-47: (2 rows) 21sc

Row 48: 3sc, 1inc, 17sc = 22sc
Row 49-50: (2 rows) 22sc
Row 51: 4sc, 1inc, 17sc = 23sc
Row 52-54: (3 rows) 23sc
Row 55: 5sc, 1inc, 17sc = 24sc
Row 56-59: (4 rows) 24sc
***Crochet 5 more stitches with skin color and switch back to white yarn.
Row 60-61: (2 rows) 24sc

LEFT FOOT
Row 1: MR 6sc, join with a slip stitch = 6sc
Row 2: Ch 6, starting from the 2nd ch, 5sc, 3sc in the MR, 1inc, 2sc, 4sc across the chain, 1inc = 18sc
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 3: (8sc, 1inc) 2 times = 20sc
Row 4-10: (7 rows) 20sc
Row 11: 10sc, ch 10, skip 10sc
Row 12: 10sc, work 10sc over the chain = 20sc
Row 13: 10dec = 10sc
Row 14: 5dec = 5sc (close with a yarn needle)
***Proceed with the following rows in the same manner as the other leg.

BODY ASSEMBLY
***Turn the back of the feet and attach the yarn from the exact side. Chain 4, join from the exact side of the other leg. (Feet should face directly forward.)
Row 1: 24sc, (4sc over the chain), 24sc, (4sc over the chain) = 56sc
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 2-8: (7 rows) 56sc
Row 9: 11sc, 1dec, 27sc, 1dec, 14sc = 54sc
Row 10: 10sc, 1dec, 26sc, 1dec, 14sc = 52sc
Row 11: 9sc, 1dec, 25sc, 1dec, 14sc = 50sc

Row 12: 8sc, 1dec, 24sc, 1dec, 14sc = 48sc
Row 13: 7sc, 1dec, 23sc, 1dec, 14sc = 46sc
Row 14: 6sc, 1dec, 22sc, 1dec, 14sc = 44sc
Row 15: 5sc, 1dec, 21sc, 1dec, 14sc = 42sc
Row 16: 5sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec, 6sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, 6sc, 1dec, 2sc = 36sc
***Switch to skin color.
Row 17-34: (18 rows) 36sc

ARM ASSEMBLY
Row 35: 7sc (Join arm with 3sc), 15sc (Join arm with 3sc), 8sc = 36sc
***Adjust the arms to be aligned completely at the sides. For instance, if after 7sc the arms are not aligned, you can join the arms after working 12sc. If you shifted 2 stitches while joining the arm, you can adjust the last part of the row by shifting 2 stitches, place the stitch marker there, and continue. This way, the pattern remains intact.
Row 36: 7sc (From the arm, 7sc), 15sc (From the arm, 7sc), 8sc = 44sc

Row 37: 6sc, 1dec, 5sc, 1dec, 13sc, 1dec, 5sc, 1dec, 7sc = 40sc
***Place wires inside the arms. Connect with the wire on the neck and bind it.
Row 38: 5sc, 1dec, 4sc, 1dec, 12sc, 1dec, 4sc, 1dec, 7sc = 36sc
Row 39: 3sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, 3sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, 3sc, 1dec, 4sc = 30sc
Row 40: 3sc, 1dec 6 times = 24sc
Row 41: 2sc, 1dec 6 times = 18sc
Row 42-45: 18sc

HEAD
Row 1: MR 6sc = 6sc
Row 2: 6inc = 12sc
Row 3: (1sc, 1inc) 6 times = 18sc
Row 4: (2sc, 1inc) 6 times = 24sc
Row 5: (3sc, 1inc) 6 times = 30sc
Row 6: (2sc, 1inc) (4sc, 1inc) 5 times, 2sc = 36sc
Row 7: (5sc, 1inc) 6 times = 42sc

Row 8: (3sc, 1inc) (6sc, 1inc) 5 times, 3sc = 48sc
Row 9: (7sc, 1inc) 6 times = 54sc
Row 10: (4sc, 1inc) (8sc, 1inc) 5 times, 4sc = 60sc
Row 11: (9sc, 1inc) 6 times = 66sc
Row 12-21: 66sc (10 rows)
Row 22: 26sc, ch 2, skip 2sc, 9sc, ch 2, skip 2sc, 27sc
Row 23: 26sc (2sc over the chain), 9sc (2sc over the chain), 27sc = 66sc
Row 24: 66sc
Row 25: 20sc (1sc, 1dec) 5 times, 5sc (1dec, 1sc) 5 times, 21sc = 76sc

Row 26-30: 76sc (5 rows)
***Attach the eyes in the spaces left in Row 22.
Row 31: 20sc (1sc, 1dec) 5 times, 5sc (1dec, 1sc) 5 times, 21sc = 66sc
Row 32: 9sc (1dec, 1sc) 6 times = 60sc
Row 33: 4sc (1dec, 1sc) (8sc, 1dec) 5 times, 4sc = 54sc
Row 34: 7sc (1dec, 1sc) 6 times = 48sc
Row 35: 3sc (1dec, 1sc) (6sc, 1dec) 5 times, 3sc = 42sc
Row 36: 5sc (1dec, 1sc) 6 times = 36sc
Row 37: 2sc, (1dec, 1sc) (4sc, 1dec) 5 times, 2sc = 30sc
Row 38: 3sc (1dec, 1sc) 6 times = 24sc

Row 39: 2sc (1dec, 1sc) 6 times = 18sc
***Work the eyebrows without separating the strands of the yarn used for the hair. (If you used a thicker yarn, you can work with 4 strands.)
***Embroider the black part of the eyes using Peria yarn, using 4 strands.
***Work the eyelashes using double strands of yarn.
***Work the white part around the eyes without separating the strands of Peria yarn. Embroider the black part with a single strand.
***Embroider the mouth using 4 strands of yarn, looping the needle through the gaps so that it does not overlap.
***Work the nose using 4 strands of yarn and wrap it around, passing the needle through the gaps.

BLOUSE
***Chain 31. Skip 7 chains. (Buttonhole)
Row 1: 3sc, in the same stitch (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 4sc, in the same stitch (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 6sc, in the same stitch (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 4sc, in the same stitch (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 3sc
***Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: 4sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 6sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 8sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 6sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 4sc
***Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3: 5sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 8sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 10sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 8sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 5sc
***Chain 1 and turn.
Row 4: 6sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 10sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 12sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 10sc, in the chain space (1sc, ch 2, 1sc), 6sc
***Chain 1 and turn.

Row 5: 8sc, skip 4 chains, 12sc, skip 16 chains, 16sc, skip 4 chains, 12sc, skip 4 chains, 8sc
***Chain 1 and turn.
Row 6: 8sc, work 4sc in the chain space, 16sc, work 4sc in the chain space, 8sc = 40sc
Row 7-9: (3 rows) 40sc
Row 10: Chain 7 and turn, 40sc
Row 11-15: (5 rows) 40sc

RIGHT SLEEVE
***Turn the backside of the blouse facing you and insert your hook into the first stitch of the 12 stitches not crocheted for the sleeve.
Row 1: 12sc, 1sc in the seam between the sleeve and the body, 4sc, 1sc in the seam between the sleeve and the body, increasing to 18sc.
***Place the stitch marker here.
Row 2: 1sc, 1inc (9 times) = 27sc

Row 3-7: (5 rows) 27sc
Row 8: 1sc, 1dec (9 times) = 18sc
Row 9: 2sc, 1dec (4 times) = 14sc
Row 10: 14sc
***Switch to white yarn, leaving the pink yarn aside.
Row 11: Work (1sc, ch 2, 1sc) in the back loop only for each stitch, creating the pattern.
Row 12: With the pink yarn left aside, work 1slst, ch 1 in the front loop only until the end of the row.

LEFT SLEEVE
***Turn the backside of the blouse facing you and insert your hook into the first chain at the bottom.
Row 1: 4sc, 1sc in the seam between the sleeve and the body, 12sc, 1sc in the seam between the sleeve and the body, increasing to 18sc.
***Place the stitch marker here.
***From this point onward, crochet all rows for the left sleeve the same as the right sleeve.

NECKLINE
Row 1: Turn the front part of the blouse towards you. Attach the yarn to the right side. Work slip stitches across. Chain 2 and turn.
Row 2: Work 1 double crochet (dc) in the back loop only for each stitch, chaining 2 between stitches, working around the neckline. Attach lace at the bottom.

OVERALLS
Row 1: Chain 30, join with a slip stitch. Crochet 30 single crochets (sc).
Rows 2-3: (2 rows) 30 sc
Row 4: 1inc, 14 sc, 1inc, 14 sc = 32 sc
Rows 5-6: (2 rows) 32 sc
Row 7: 1sc, 1inc, 15 sc, 1inc, 14 sc = 34 sc
Rows 8-9: (2 rows) 34 sc
Row 10: 2sc, 1inc, 16 sc, 1inc, 14 sc = 36 sc

Rows 11-12: (2 rows) 36 sc
Row 13: 3sc, 1inc, 17 sc, 1inc, 14 sc = 38 sc
Rows 14-15: (2 rows) 38 sc
Row 16: 4sc, 1inc, 18 sc, 1inc, 14 sc = 40 sc
Rows 17-18: (2 rows) 40 sc
Row 19: 5sc, 1inc, 19 sc, 1inc, 14 sc = 42 sc
Rows 20-30: (11 rows) 42 sc
***If the overall piece seems short due to differences in arm length, you can extend the section where you’ve crocheted 11 rows. This way, crochet two pieces and leave the yarn longer in the first piece.

Joining:
Row 1: Without cutting the yarn from the second piece, counting forward from the stitch where the slip stitches were made in the first piece, insert your hook into the 9th stitch. Crochet 34sc. Without crocheting 8 stitches, move to the other piece. Skip 8 stitches in the other piece and crochet 34sc. Connect the remaining 8 stitches together.
***Place the stitch marker here.
Rows 2-4: (3 rows) 68sc

Row 5: 10sc, 1dec, 44sc, 1dec, 10sc = 66sc
Row 6: 12sc, 1dec, 36sc, 1dec, 14sc = 64sc
Row 7: 14sc, 1dec, 32sc, 1dec, 14sc = 62sc
Rows 8-11: (4 rows) 62sc
Row 12: Work 62sc in the back loops only (BLO)
Row 13: Crochet 62sc in both loops
Row 14: Work 62sc in BLO and cut the yarn.

Front Part:
Row 1: Counting from the stitch where the slip stitch was made, insert your hook into the 20th stitch and crochet 24sc. *Decreases will be made by crocheting two stitches together.
Row 2: 1dec, 20sc, 1dec = 22sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 3: 1dec, 18sc, 1dec = 20sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 4: 1dec, 16sc, 1dec = 18sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 5: 1dec, 14sc, 1dec = 16sc, chain 1 and turn.

Row 6: 1dec, 12sc, 1dec = 14sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 7: 14sc
Row 8: 1dec, 10sc, 1dec = 12sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 9: 12sc
Row 10: 1dec, 8sc, 1dec = 10sc, chain 1 and turn.
Rows 11-12: (2 rows) 10sc

Back Part:
*Turn the back part of the overalls towards you and locate the 9th stitch from the front side.
Row 1: Crochet 22 single crochets (sc). Chain 1 and turn.
Row 2: 1dec, 18sc, 1dec = 20sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 3: 1dec, 16sc, 1dec = 18sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 4: 1dec, 14sc, 1dec = 16sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 5: 16sc
Row 6: 1dec, 12sc, 1dec = 14sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 7: 14sc

Row 8: 1dec, 10sc, 1dec = 12sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 9: 12sc
Row 10: 1dec, 8sc, 1dec = 10sc, chain 1 and turn.
Row 11: 1dec, 6sc, 1dec = 8sc
Row 12: 8sc
Without cutting the yarn, we are creating a border:
Crochet 12 single crochets downward, make 8 slip stitches at the corner, then crochet 13 single crochets upward from the front part, followed by 10 single crochets across the top, then 13 single crochets downward, another 8 slip stitches at the corner, 12 single crochets across the upper part of the back section, then 1 single crochet at the top. Chain 42, make 1 single crochet in the same stitch, 4 single crochets, 1 single crochet in the same stitch after chaining 42, then make a slip stitch, chain 1, and cut the yarn.

Pockets
Row 1: Chain 9, starting from the 2nd chain from the hook, make 8sc, chain 1, turn.
Row 2-6: Chain 1, turn, and crochet 8sc for 5 rows.
Row 7: Skip 1 stitch, crochet 6sc, do not crochet the last stitch, chain 1, turn.
Row 8: Skip 1 stitch, crochet 4sc, do not crochet the last stitch. Leave the yarn long.
Row 9: Attach the yarn on the left side, make a “U” shape with 1 slip stitch and chain 1.

Shoe
***Start with white yarn
Row 1: Make 8 chains and from the 2nd chain, 1 inc, 5 sc, in the same stitch make 5 sc, 5 sc, in the same stitch make 3 sc, ch 1 = 20 sc
Row 2: 2 inc, 5 hdc, 5 inc, 5 hdc, 3 inc, ch 1 = 30 hdc
Row 3: (1 hdc, 1 inc 2 times), 5 hdc, (1 hdc, 1 inc 5 times), 5 hdc, (1 hdc, 1 inc 3 times), ch 1 = 40 hdc
***Switch to pink yarn, leaving the white yarn out.
Row 4: Work BLO (Back Loop Only) for 40 sc, ch 1

Row 5-7: Work 40 sc for 3 rows, ch 1
***Using the white yarn left out, work sc in the front loops only across the row. For rows 3 and 4, work sc across the rows in between.
Row 8: 11 sc, 8 dec, 13 sc, ch 1 = 32 sc
Row 9: 9 sc (skip 1 st, 1 ch, 6 times), 11 sc, ch 1, cut the yarn.
Row 10: With pink yarn, insert the hook into the stitch where you made the last slip stitch using the contrast color. Make 2 chains, and work 18 dc. Cut the yarn.
Row 11: With pink yarn, make 25 chains, and from the beginning of the first double crochet, insert the hook. Work 1 sc, 1 ch to the end of the row, make 25 chains, cut the yarn.

Wig
Row 1: Ch 8, then make 8 sc.
Row 2: 8 inc = 16 sc.
Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeated 8 times = 24 sc.
Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeated 8 times = 32 sc.
Row 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeated 8 times = 40 sc.
***Moving on to the hair strands (bangs).
Row 6: 20 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 19 sc.

Row 7: 24 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 23 sc.
Row 8: 28 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 27 sc.
***Separated part of the bangs
Row 9: 28 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 27 sc.
Row 10: 24 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 23 sc.
Row 11: 20 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 19 sc.
Row 12: 16 ch, from the 2nd chain, make 15 sc.
“After this section, make 51 chains and crochet 50 half double crochets (hdc) into each chain. Leave the yarn long. Turn the wig inside out and place it on the head. Secure the hair strands to the head using a needle. Leave 6 strands on the right side and 3 strands on the left side without sewing.”

Basket
Row 1: Ch 8x = 8x
Row 2: 8inc = 16x
Row 3: (1x, 1inc) 8 times = 24x
Row 4: (2x, 1inc) 8 times = 32x
Row 5: (3x, 1inc) 8 times = 40x
Row 6: (4x, 1inc) 8 times = 48x
Row 7: (5x, 1inc) 8 times = 56x
Row 8: (6x, 1inc) 8 times = 64x

Row 9: Work in blo (back loop only) for 64x
Row 10: 64 double crochets (dc)
Row 11: Create the pattern by working 2 chains, work 1dc in the stitch above and 1dc in the stitch below. Finish each row with 2 chains.
Rows 12-17: (6 rows)
Row 18: Start at the top loops of the lace and work 1 chain and 1 slip stitch until the end.
*** Wrap the brown yarn around a 20cm wire and glue the ends inside the basket for a handle.
*** For the greenery in the basket: Make 31 chains, start from the second chain and crochet 30 double crochets (dc) then fasten off.

Mushroom
Row 1: Make a magic ring and single crochet (sc) 6 times into the ring.
Row 2: Increase in each stitch around – 6 increases, resulting in 12 single crochets (sc).
Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeated 6 times – total 18 sc.
Rows 4-5: Work even for two rows (18 sc in each row).
Row 6: (1 sc, 1 dec) repeated 6 times – total 12 sc.
Rows 7-10: Work even for four rows (12 sc in each row).
Row 11: Work in the back loop only (blo) for 12 sc.
Rows 12-14: Continue working in the back loop only for three rows (12 sc in each row).

***Attach the yarn to the front loop of the stitches made in the blo and work 1 double crochet (dc), 1 double crochet increase (dc inc).
Row 15: In the front loop, (1 sc, 1 inc) repeated 6 times, slip stitch 1 chain = 18 sc.
Row 16: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeated 6 times, slip stitch 1 chain = 24 sc.
Row 17: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeated 6 times, slip stitch 1 chain = 30 sc.
Row 18: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeated 6 times, slip stitch 1 chain = 36 sc.
Row 19: (8 sc, 1 inc) repeated 4 times, slip stitch 1 chain = 40 sc, cut the yarn.

Top of the Mushroom
Row 1: Make a magic ring and single crochet (sc) 5 times into the ring.
Row 2: Increase in each stitch around – 5 increases, resulting in 10 single crochets (sc).
Row 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeated 5 times – total 15 sc.
Row 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeated 5 times – total 20 sc.
Row 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeated 5 times – total 25 sc.
Row 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeated 5 times – total 30 sc.
Row 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeated 5 times – total 35 sc.
Row 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeated 5 times – total 40 sc.
Place this white part on top and join it with the ‘x’ stitches.

Clasp
Row 1: Inside the magic ring, work the following sequence:
3 chain stitches, wrap the yarn twice to create a cluster of 3 treble crochets (3 times), a cluster of 2 double crochets (3 times), a cluster of 3 treble crochets (1 time), a cluster of 2 double crochets (3 times), a cluster of 3 treble crochets (3 times), chain 3 and join with a slip stitch into the magic ring. Cut the yarn.

For the white part:
Chain 9 and start from the second chain from the hook: crochet 7 single crochets, then 5 half double crochets in the same stitch, followed by 7 single crochets. Finish by joining with a slip stitch to the first chain. Sew onto the backside. Affix it onto a snap clip.